Since leaving Queenstown, I have been travelling up the west coast of the south island. Clearly I am on the same path as other people from the Milford Track, because in Franz Josef I was at the ATM when I heard someone calling my name (the family from Rhode Island was passing through town), and today while crossing a street in Hokitika I heard my name again (the professor from my college). Small island, small country, small world. I spent two nights in Franz Josef (one of them undisturbed in my bunk), and hiked on a glacier on the day in between. I wasn't really in the mood for it, but when am I going to get the chance to hike on a glacier again? So I forked over lots of money (NZ is expensive with all the fun activities I want to do! Good thing the exchange rate is so good for me), strapped on a pair of crampons (sounds like a tampon made by Crayola), and set off in the rain. (Of course it started to rain as soon as we got to the glacier. Oh well.) It was totally cool (and not just because we were on a stretch of ice the size of Delaware--give or take a few square meters) and I'm glad I did it. Today I got back on the bus (LOTS of buses, but at least they are all narrated, so I find out interesting little tidbits about NZ, like in Maori "wh" is prounounced /f/, where bits of Lord of the Rings was filmed, and that a stag in that paddock over there has "a nice set"... a nice set of what??), and headed up to Punakaiki, home of the Pancake Rocks (layers of limestone which look like a big stack of pancakes). The Rocks were really neat to look at, and if I ever figure out how to upload pictures from the YHA computers, I'll show you! (I may be able to find an internet place in Nelson, where I'll be tomorrow.) I had booked myself into the Te Nikau Retreat, which is a youth hostel associate. It was a bit out of town (what town there is... a visitor's center and two cafes), but they offered pickup. And at $22 NZ (about $12US at the moment), I decided to go for it. Oh my goodness, is all I have to say, closely followed by: 1) You all should come to New Zealand 2) You should come to Punakaiki and 3) You should stay at the Te Nikau retreat!!! It is a series of cabins (all different, ranging from a 'stargazer' wooden tent to a nice cottage) set in the rainforest. So imagine your favorite piece of woods somewhere, then tuck in about 10 cozy little cabins all down little paths, so you can't see any of them from each other. (Add in the smell of muffins baking at the main lodge.) Oh, and put a path at the foot of the steps through the rainforest to the beach. I am staying in an A-frame cabin that has 7 beds on two levels (plus cozy chairs and a couch), it's own little kitchen (which is in a greenhouse... could I love it any more?!) and bathroom. I am going to celebrate this wonderful place by enjoying a nice glass of red wine (I bought a whole bottle from reception!) with my dinner of pasta and sauce (I haven't bought pasta sauce EVER, but when you are cooking for yourself in a different kitchen each night, sometimes you just have to cave). Needless to say, I am immensely happy. (If you are really lucky, I'll be able to upload a little guided tour movie that I made, so check back...)
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