La Playa

Sorry I haven't put up a post in a while, but I've been much too busy being at the beach doing a whole lot of nothing. And it has been good.

Last Saturday I left San Ramon (aka Podunk, Costa Rica), and headed for the port of Puntarenas on the West coast on a bus that was so full that I had to stand in the aisle for the first half hour, until some nice Tico (Costa Rican) offered me his seat. I'm not sure WHY he offered me his seat, as he didn't get off for another ten minutes. Perhaps I was just the nearest female to him. Perhaps he saw me yawn. Whatever the reason, I accepted.

Puntarenas was insanely hot. I got off the bus with my big pack on my back (down to 14 kilos last time it got weighed) and little pack on front, and headed for the post office to send my last letter. I've run out of airmail envelopes and stationery, and I'm almost out of time, so I think I managed that pretty well. From there I started wandering in the general direction of the ferry, which was reputed to be 3 kilometers away. There was supposed to be a bus to the ferry that went up and down the main street, but I didn't see it. I had finally decided to hail a cab, but I couldn't find any that were free. So on and on I trekked in the heat. Eventually a bus did pull up. It wasn't labeled Ferry, so I wasn't sure, but the driver said he was going that way. I think he just felt sorry for me, for there was noone on the bus, and he didn't charge me anything for the ride. Gracias!

The hour-long ferry trip across the Bay of Nicoya was uneventful. At that point I was still pretty jaded (I'm better now), so I wasn't terribly impressed by the scenery. It was really wierd, however seeing all the trees brown and leafless. It's not because it is fall or winter, but rather because it is hot and dry. (Believe it or not, it is raining right now. Real rain. Hard rain. The first rain I've seen since New Zealand, I think. As I walked into town there was a bolt of lightning closely followed by a clap of thunder, which in turn was closely followed by a bunch of monkeys putting up quite a racket. I guess they don't like lightning.) But even in my jaded state, I was impressed by the schools of fish that you could see off the side of the boat. I was not impressed, however, by the number of jellyfish. Peachy. Rip tides and jelly fish. Just what I want in a beach!

From the ferry I got on another bus (this one of the chicken variety, although it was mostly filled not by chickens but with backpackers like myself--although I don't really consider myself a true backpacker, as my goal isn't to get drunk every night, smoke ridiculous amounts of cigarettes and anything else I can get my hands on), which also was standing room only, and felt exactly like a sauna. It was pretty much unbelievable. I turned to the guy standing behind me and commented on it, and we struck up a conversation. He and his girlfriend were headed to the same hostel as I, and I ended up spending the last four days with them. Pat and Nat were a lovely couple from Montreal, who were about my age, and were much fun to hang out with.

There actually were quite a few great people at the hostel. Another French Canadian couple, a French couple (they all were very nice to me and spoke in English all the time), as well as the younger crowd of a great guy from Edmonton, and a German who was so, well, German that I couldn't help but laugh sometimes. (When I finally admitted to him that I spoke German and I said something to him, he got a funny look on his face and said, "Well, that was an interesting combination of German, English and Spanish.") The first night at Hotel Lucy (seriously), when I was in a dorm with 5 other people (real backpackers) and I heard one say "I hope I didn't lose my rum," and another respond "You can drink my gin; I'm not going to drink it," I was terribly unsure about the whole situation. But they all left and I connected with all the Frenchies, and everything became much better. Finally, FINALLY I have the experience that everyone talks about-- "You will meet loads of people." Not until now, with just a few weeks left in my trip. Just saving the best for last, I guess.

With my new friends (who hopefully will come down from Canada this summer to the beach!), I explored Cabo Blanco, Costa Rica's first nature reserve. We hiked the two hours to the beach, had lunch and a dip, then hiked back, being chased by two women who worked there who wanted to make sure we left the reserve by 4pm when it closed. The hike through the forest was pretty, and we saw a few animals here and there, but it was hot. More hot than I possibly have ever been in my life. I know this because at the end of the hike my shirt was absolutly sodden, except for a very small patch on the bottom of the front. I drank three liters of water, and didn't pee once. I just sweat it all out. Yarg!

The next day we explored the local waterfall. Hike up a stream for about 20 minutes and you get to a great swimming hole with a huge waterfall. Swim, watch the fish, enjoy. Then climb pretty much vertically up a "path" and then up some more, and then down something which luckily had a rope to hold onto (all this in a bikini and sarong), and you get to the upper waterfall and three more swimming holes. Many people (who have much less sense than I) hurled themselves off the 10 meter waterfall into the pool below, but I was content with staying in the middle pool, swinging on the rope swing a few times. (Two days later, my arms are still incredibly sore.) Come down with the German guy in the lead, get lost a bit, end up at a fantastic lookout point with a tremendous view of the coast, then watch a group of male howler monkeys for a while. Not a bad day!

Yesterday I trekked WAY up the beach with Pat and Nat (it was crazy hot again, and the ocean was pretty rough an univiting), to an amazing beach, where it was flat, with gentle waves that weren't trying to drag us out to sea or pummel us into the sand. And someone had very kindly built little shade huts along the beach out of driftwood and palm fronds. When we got there, there wasn't another soul there. This was definitely the life.

Most of my new friends left yesterday, and Pat and Nat left today (but then the other French Canadian couple returned, due to the boat they were to take not actually having a motor or something), so I was a little worried I would be sad and lonely again, but I'm okay so far. (I've got a great book) This past few days just reinforces yet again that I really need to be with people that I like-- and respect. It was nice having grown-ups to hang out with. Even though the Edmonton kid was 13 years my junior, he was fun to talk to as well (and not just because he thought I was 28, and wouldn't believe that I am actually 36). Smart people, kind people, respectful people. Those are the people I need.

Tomorrow I think will be my last day here at the beach (I already extended my stay here three days longer than I thought), and then I'll head up to the mountains to do some hiking in the cool weather. That should be nice. After than, not much longer until I head home! Woo hoo!!!